When traveling through Europe, it doesn't take long to realize that dining habits are starkly diverse in different countries. In Spain, there is the legally-obligatory menu del dia at lunchtime, an appetizer, main course, dessert, bread, and drinks for a set price. It's customary for the locals to eat dinner between 9 and 11 in the evening, so the menu is also available when most tourists are ready for dinner. In France, it is a common sight to see people carrying baguettes in the morning. My accommodation prescribes a breakfast of two loaves of bread, along with a bowl of cereal and a small cup of yogurt. The French food pyramid must have a very thick bread base. Wine must take a big chunk of the pyramid too - lunch and dinner tables are filled with wine glasses.
Here in Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France, bouchons dominate the restaurant scene - they specialize in traditional Lyonnese cuisine, including various pig body parts that aren't eaten anywhere else. When I arrived yesterday, my meal times were still aligned with the Spaniards, and bouchons aren't opened on Sundays (barely anything is open...I ate at McDonald's for dinner!), so I shall wait until tomorrow for a visit.
Meanwhile, yesterday, I had a tartine, an open-faced sandwich with something fancy spread on top. I pointed to a random tartine on the menu and received a cheese spread - it tasted like goat cheese, but it didn't have the distinctive goat cheese smell. I think goat cheese would be much more popular if more people were given the option of tasting it without smelling it.
Today, I visited Brasserie Leon de Lyon, a Michelin-starred restaurant featuring decor from 1904. On the wall are photos and plaques commemorating a visit from Jacques Chirac and Bill Clinton. Which reminds me that Bill Clinton is undoubtedly the most prominent food critic in the world. At first sight, "Bill Clinton ate here" seems like a bragging right, but travel around a bit and you'll find that he has seemingly eaten everywhere! A few months ago, the New York Times had a feature article on this:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/10/27/dining/27clinton.html
I noticed the word volaille on the menu and ordered the dish, eager for some chicken, and also asked for some chardonnay. A few minutes later, the waiter brought out a dish of chicken breast, topped with a creamy sauce, with some bread on the side. This in addition to the bread already on the table. It's about time for some American entrepreneur to invent a weight loss diet based on stuffing yourself with bread.
Last November, French cuisine (along with Mexican cuisine) was added to the UNESCO world heritage list. It was this designation that led me to stop in the French city best known for its gastronomic culture. And gastronomy shall continue to be a focal point on the Grand Tour - the next stop is Italy.
No comments:
Post a Comment