Fez, Morocco: Some Thoughts

What we take for granted as a society is often not evident until we visit a completely distinct culture. Westerners have been backpacking in Latin America and Southeast Asia for a while now, but from what I've seen so far, traveling in the Arab world is an even greater assault on the senses.

Eating
This is my first experience in traveling to a country where it's a challenge to find restaurants. Moroccans tend to eat in their homes, so there are only a handful of restaurants, and they specifically cater to tourists. The food selection is quite limited - couscous and tajine are the two main dishes, and mint tea is served with every meal. In a city of a million people, there is exactly one McDonald's (pointed out to me by my cab driver from the airport).

Free Time
In much of the world, technology has taken over our free time - cell phones, internet, video games. Inside the walled city of Fez, internet cafes and cell phones are rare sights. Instead, men tend to gather at cafes (where food is often not served), where they play cards, watch TV, or sit and let the day pass. I'm told that women tend to socialize at the hammams, or communal baths. (Many Moroccans do not have shower facilities in the home, so the hammams are also frequented for hygenic purposes.)

Islam
Morocco is a Muslim country, led by a king who is a direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed. Some of Islam's influences can be amusing - for example, what does a lit crescent represent? It represents a pharmacy, similar to how a cross might represent one in a traditional Christian society.
Also, the locals have often asked if I'm Muslim - a valid question, since they likely find it a rare sight to meet someone who is not. When I answer "no", the conversation usually awkwardly switches to another topic. That said, any discussions I have had regarding politics and religion have been respectful and civil - a stark contrast to what one might expect from media reports.

Government
Speaking of politics, framed photos of King Mohammed VI are easily found around town. Surprisingly, he is frequently portrayed in relaxed poses - cafes often have images of him sipping tea. He is known for his reform agenda, welcoming international travelers into the country and allowing them to buy property.
I have also been struck by the number of bureaucratic institutions that surround the old city. An expat has told me that the administration of the government is based on the French system (Morocco's past colonizers), so big bureaucracies and high taxes are the norm here - something that I have not traditionally associated with developing countries. I suppose it might be a case of Morocco being a developing country with more European influences, whereas Latin America seems to be more aligned with the US. I guess this could be an entire research paper (as with any of the above topics), but it's time to wrap up my brief stay here and take the ferry to Spain...