Athens: A Parthenon View

Since learning about the Elgin Marbles in Art 101, their story has long fascinated me. The dispute regarding their ownership of is perhaps the most famous controversy in the art world today. Among the Elgin Marbles are about half of the still-remaining decorations that had been on the top of the Parthenon. The Greeks have asked for their return, intending to reunite the marbles with those currently on display at the Acropolis Museum, while the British intend to keep the marbles in their current home at the British Museum.

Visiting these two museums provides a glimpse into both sides of the story. In January, I visited the British Museum, where the Elgin Marbles comprise a custom-built wing of the museum. The wing encapsulates the British Museum's status as an encyclopedia in one building, produced by the Enlightenment ideals of the British Empire. A hallway includes the history of the marbles, detailing Lord Elgin's early 19th century purchase of the marbles from the Ottoman Empire, who were the then-rules of Athens. This exhibit celebrates Lord Elgin's transport of the marbles to Britain, noting that the conditions of Athens at the time did not provide for safe storage of the marbles. In the middle of the large room displaying the marbles, the museum invites visitors to take a brochure that provides an overview of the controversy. The brochure reminds visitors that they are never charged to see the marbles at the British Museum (the Acropolis Museum has a €5 admission charge, with occasional free days).

Meanwhile, here in Athens, the Acropolis Museum, opened two years ago, houses the other half on a custom-built top floor, complete with window panels that provide a view of the Acropolis, which is across the street. The Athens and London displays similarly combine the actual marbles with replicas of the marbles that are at the other location. The museum does not have an exhibit devoted to Lord Elgin, but the displays and videos refer to him as a looter. The route through the museum ensures that visitors view marbles from other parts of the Acropolis before stepping into the room with the Parthenon marbles, simulating a walk up the hill of the Acropolis.

There is a general consensus that the Elgin Marbles should not be returned to the top of the Acropolis. Nonetheless, walking to the top of the hill, seeing what remains of the ruins, and enjoying a panoramic view of Athens is still something that every visitor to Athens must experience. On my hike to the top, I was reminded of Mark Twain's account of sneaking into Athens to see the Parthenon – their ferry had been quarantined, so he and a friend decided to find a way in with the night skies providing cover. In contrast, I simply have to avoid the transport strikes that have become routine in a country saddled with austerity measures. They have just scheduled one for Wednesday...I better get out of town by Tuesday!