Although the geographical heart and soul of Australia is found in the emptiness of the outback, the vast majority of Australians live in or near one of its 8 capital cities. Having visited all of them, here are some of my favorite accommodations, restaurants, and sites.
For Melbourne, please see my previous post.
Darwin
Mindil Beach Sunset Market, Thursdays and Sundays from April to October
Seemingly attended by the entire city, this market focuses heavily on arts and crafts, but also includes the requisite food and music. At dusk, there is a mass migration to the beach for a view of the sunset.
Banyan View Lodge, 119 Mitchell St
A YWCA that also accepts men, the courtyard is a great place to relax and read underneath palm trees and amidst swinging chairs. Combines a quiet stay with great access to the Mitchell St nightlife.
Darwin Botanic Garden
Since Darwin is Australia's only tropical capital city, this botanic garden provides a vastly different experience from similar gardens around the country. Opens at 7am, which is a great time to visit due to the strong midday heat.
World War II Oil Storage Tunnels, Darwin Waterfront
Two of the tunnels have been converted into a museum featuring Darwin during World War II - the city was bombed by the Japanese, by the same regiment that had bombed Pearl Harbor two months before.
Adelaide
If you have to pick one capital city to skip, then skip Adelaide.
National Wine Centre, Hackney Rd
Includes a museum with a fine introduction to the basics of winemaking.
Hostel 109, 109 Carrington St
Quiet, no-frills accommodation in a small hostel.
Perth
Annalakshmi on the Swan, Barrack Square
This pay-what-you-wish, vegetarian buffet restaurant also comes with Swan River views. Be sure to leave room for dessert!
Little Creatures Brewery, 40 Mews Rd, Fremantle
Great place to unwind after a day cycling Rottnest Island. Also serves great oysters.
Rottnest Island
Although Rottnest Island has a reputation of being overpriced (ferry rides and bike hire will set you back roughly $70), the island is worth visiting. Cycle along the car-free paths, meet some quokkas (they look like mini-kangaroos), and enjoy the many beaches.
The Pinnacles
A long daytrip from Perth, this desert includes limestone pillars that are just tall enough to make for some memorable games of hide-and-seek.
Harriet Island
A short walk from the Perth CBD, this island features kangaroos and unobstructed views of the city skyline - a combination that leads to great photo opportunities.
Sydney
YHA Railway Square
I consider this the best hostel in Australia. Any hostel bearing the YHA stamp should be a good one, but this one has a fascinating historical quirk - it used to be part of a train station. The hostel even has old carriages that have been converted into dorm rooms!
Glenferrie Inn
An affordable bed-and-breakfast located in the suburb of Kirribilli, which is connected to the CBD by the Sydney Harbour Bridge, or by a 7-minute ferry ride. An excellent opportunity to live like the locals and "commute" into Sydney via train, ferry, bus, or foot.
Sydney Botanic Gardens
Besides the striking views of the harbour and skyline, it also features the widest variety of animals that I have seen in any urban botanic garden.
Sydney Opera House
This one is an obvious mention, but it was a dream come true to be able to step inside this venue - first in March to hear the violinist Nigel Kennedy perform songs by Bach and Ellington, then in July for an opera, A Little Night Music.
Holland House @ Tokio Hotel, 101 Cockle Bay Wharf, Darling Harbour
This is where the local Dutch community gathers to watch football (soccer) matches dressed in orange. Great for anyone seeking a introduction to life in the Netherlands, or anyone who simply wants to find an orange mob.
Canberra
The most underrated city in Australia. It certainly does have the feel of suburbia on crop circles, but there is plenty to explore here, with troves of free museums and bike paths.
Australian War Memorial
An extensive war memorial is not what most visitors to Australia are actively seeking. However, visiting this memorial shows how Australia teaches her national history to her own citizens. Why does every Australian town have an ANZAC memorial? Why do Australian newspapers frequently contain advertisements featuring pilgrimages to Gallipoli, Turkey? If you only visit one museum in Australia, this should be the one.
Old and New Parliament
Old Parliament, which was used until 1988, looks like it's been largely left untouched. A great chance to walk into the rooms where the country's most powerful lawmakers debated, pondered, and (presumably) called the pizza man for a late night delivery. New Parliament, besides featuring the expected overview of Australian federal government, also includes a great rooftop view of Canberra.
Yarrayumla
This is where most of the embassies are located - so this is Canberra's equivalent to Washington DC's Dupont Circle or New York's Midtown East. I highly recommend visiting any such neighborhood because it's amazing what can be learned by simply strolling and glancing at the embassies/consulates. For example, in Canberra, the Iranian embassy is an empty plot of land facing a mosque. The Israeli embassy features a prominent security center with tinted windows. The US embassy has the stereotypical white-picket fence. If it's an architecture contest, I vote for the Thai embassy.
Brisbane
El Torito, 146 Boundary St, West End
Since authentic Mexican food is hard to find in Australia, any restaurant fitting the bill is worth a mention. This place even serves food on "Mexican time" - it took an hour for my main dish to arrive.
Australia Zoo
2 hours away by train, the Australia Zoo is a shrine to the late Steve Irwin. I happened to visit when his tween daughter, Bindi, was performing in concert. Steve's widow, Terri, also hosted the show at the Crocoseum.
Aussie Way Backpackers, 34 Cricket St
The owner emphatically asserts that this is NOT a party hostel, so it's a perfect place to stay for those seeking a quiet night's rest. Has a bed-and-breakfast feel, albeit without the free breakfast.
Hobart
Fish Frenzy, Elizabeth Street Pier
The most affordable place to have fish and chips near the Hobart waterfront.
Mount Wellington
A 4 to 6 hour return hike (a city bus to Fern Tree takes you half way up). Or pay $20-25 for the shuttle.
Salamanca Place
Contains some of the finest independent art galleries in Australia. Salamanca Place also has some great used bookstores. I wasn't there on a Saturday, but word on the street is that the day market here on Saturdays is a must-see if you're around.
Cadbury Factory
Learn how chocolate is processed, and if you dare, taste 100% cocoa. (It tastes horrible...there's a good reason why the highest percentage of cocoa found in retail store chocolate is around 80%.)
Cascade Brewery
Goes well with Cadbury Factory and Fish Frenzy for a food tour of Hobart. Admission includes 3 glasses of beer. This is the oldest brewery in Australia.
Richmond
A historic town with Georgian architecture, it is about an hour away by bus and makes for a good daytrip. Richmond contains some of Australia's oldest buildings and even includes a replica of the Hobart CBD in its infancy.
Alice Springs
Although Alice Springs is not a capital city, I'll cover it anyways because it is the largest outback city. (It has 3 traffic lights.)
Desert Rose Inn, 15 Railway Terrace
A budget hotel with furniture that seems to be stuck in the 80's. The TV's include a knob for switching the channels and the wallpaper is almost falling off, so this hotel is best suited for nostalgic types.
Old Ghan Heritage Railway and Museum, 1 Norris Bell Ave
Having taken the train to Alice Springs, it was a treat to see a train from several decades back. Based on the width of the walkways, it's obvious we've come a long way in terms of disabled access and fire safety regulations. Next to this museum is the Transport Hall of Fame.
Royal Flying Doctor Service Museum, 8 Stuart Terrace
A unique insight into the RFDS, which services isolated communities, as well as long-distance train passengers needing emergency medical assistance. Also a great place to learn about Rev John Flynn, who founded the RFDS and is featured on Australia's $20 bill.
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